Steven and I have written numerous blogs on spring grill maintenance. (See links to them below.) This is a distillation of that information with more emphasis on non-toxic cleaning products and useful tools to make the job easier. We’ll also share our best tips for getting your grill or smoker in prime condition for the grilling season ahead.

How to Clean Your Grill or Smoker

1. Spread a tarp over the area where you intend to work.

Before you begin, spread a large heavy-duty waterproof tarp over the area where you intend to work. Grease and carbonized debris can make quite a mess of your patio, driveway, or even the grass.

2. Fill a large bucket or tub with hot soapy water.

Fill a large bucket or tub—we like the rectangular bus tubs like those used in restaurants—with hot soapy water. A dishwashing detergent that’s good on grease, such as Dawn, works best.

3. Disconnect the gas tank.

Disconnect the gas tank. If it is nearly empty, set it aside for refilling. (To determine the gas level, pour boiling water over the shoulders of the tank. The gas line will reveal itself.) Transport it in a plastic milk crate like this one.

4. Loosen any food stuck to the grill grates.

Using a sturdy wire grill brush, loosen any food stuck to the grill grates. Remove the grates, warming rack, Flavorizer bars, drip pans or plates, ash catcher, grease bucket (on pellet grills), etc., and soak them in the hot soapy water. If they are too large for the bucket, slip them into a sturdy garbage bag with soap and water and set aside to soak. Dump any unused charcoal or ash.

5. Remove the burner tubes, if it’s an option.

On some gas grill models, the burner tubes are attached to the unit with a small screw or cotter pin. Remove them if it’s an option. Use a bent paper clip to clear any that appear to be plugged. If the burner tubes are not removable, cover them with heavy-duty foil. (Be sure to remove the foil before firing up your grill.)

6. If cleaning a pellet grill, remove all the pellets from the pellet bin.

If cleaning a pellet grill, remove all the pellets from the pellet bin, including any that remain in the augur or firebox. Under no circumstances do you want them to come in contact with water or moisture, as they will disintegrate and cause you all kinds of headaches.

7. Scrape the underside of the grill lid to loosen and remove carbonized debris.

With a plastic putty knife, pot scrubber, or other dull-bladed tool, scrape the underside of the grill lid to loosen and remove carbonized debris. (It will look like flaking paint.) Clean the firebox with a shop vacuum, using the putty knife to dislodge any burned-on bits.

8. Clean the gas line.

Clean the gas line with pipe cleaners or a similar tool—a chopstick wrapped with a paper towel, for example. This is often a hiding spot for spiders or other insects.

9. Wash the interior of the grill.

Wash the interior of the grill with hot soapy water and a plastic sponge or scrubby. (Metal scrubbies can easily scratch stainless steel.)

10. Sweep out any leaves or other debris from the lower cabinet.

If your grill has a lower cabinet, use a whisk broom to sweep out any leaves or other debris.

11. Clean the outside of the grill.

Clean the outside of the grill with hot soapy water, white vinegar, or a non-toxic stainless steel cleaner like Simple Green Stainless Steel Polish. (Try to work on a cloudy day for less streaking.) Polish following the “grain” of the finish. Use a soft toothbrush to clean outside knobs.

12. If you own a pellet grill, clean the inside of the chimney.

If you own a pellet grill, remove the cap (it will likely need a good soaking) and use a paint stick, dowel, or bottle brush to clean the inside of the chimney. Carefully wipe down the temperature probe (located inside the firebox) to ensure it continues to give you accurate readings. Clean WiFi-connected mechanisms following the manufacturer’s instructions.

13. Dry the grill with soft microfiber towels.

14. Scrub the grill grates and any other parts you’ve been soaking.

Scrub the grill grates and any other parts you’ve been soaking. If the debris is stubborn, sprinkle it with white vinegar and coarse salt or baking soda. Let sit for 30 minutes, then scrub vigorously; rinse with clean water from a garden hose.

We’ve discovered a pumice brick, often sold in the grilling section of hardware stores, is an effective tool for cleaning grill grates. (Do not use on porcelain grates.) Be sure to rinse well to remove any dust from the brick. If your grates are cast iron, dry them thoroughly after cleaning and coat with peanut oil.

Grill grates hopelessly rusted? Bite the bullet and invest in a new set. Ditto for any Flavorizer bars that have oxidized or burned through, or lava stones.

15. Replace the battery in your grill’s igniter.

If needed, replace the battery in your grill’s igniter. (Many people don’t realize it’s powered by batteries.)

16. Lubricate any moving parts (such as grill vents), with WD-40.

17. Reassemble the grill.

Reassemble the grill. If apropos, reconnect the gas tank (preferably topped off). Fire up the grill to burn off any soapy residue. Fifteen minutes should be sufficient.

18. Spritz your grill grates with water after each grill session to keep them looking pristine.

To keep your grill grates looking pristine, spritz them with water while they’re still screaming hot after each grill session. Any burned on bits of food or sauce should release easily. The process is a bit like deglazing a pan. If the grates are cast iron, finish your grill session by coating them lightly with vegetable oil.

19. Prepare a grilled or smoked feast to reward your hard work!

For additional blogs devoted to cleaning and maintaining your grill, click here.

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1. ULTIMATE GRILL BRUSH – $25 or less

One thing to avoid is a grill brush with loose steel bristles that may break off and find their way into your food. With Steven’s improved Ultimate Grill Brush, you never have to worry about that happening to you! Use the steel bristle side of the brush on cast iron and stainless steel grill grates; the brass bristles on more delicate porcelainized enamel. Brush the hot grate before the food goes on and don’t forget to brush it again when you’re finished cooking.

2. CHARCOAL / ASH CAN and ASH SCOOP – Around $25-30

Where do you store charcoal, or hold ash (even if it’s still warm)? You should have a dedicated Charcoal / Ash Can to use when you’re grilling or cleaning up. Steven’s Charcoal / Ash Scoop pairs perfectly to make sure you can safely handle, store, and dispose of the fuel you use for your grill.

3. GRILL GRATE OILER BRUSH – $15 or less

A well-oiled grate is the third rule in the grill master’s mantra. Follow it! Keep your food from sticking to the grill by oiling it using this grill oiler brush, which allows you to cover a larger surface of your grill with oil in a smaller amount of time than using traditional oiling methods. This will save you a lot of time later when cleaning off your last cook!

The post Pick Up Your Essential Best of Barbecue Grill Cleaning Tools Today appeared first on Barbecuebible.com.

First up is Memphis Wood Fire Grills. This multi-year sponsor of Project Fire and its predecessor, Project Smoke, produces its high-end line of pellet grills/smokers in the U.S. Free-standing and built-in models are available.

While many pellet smokers are designed to mimic old-school off-set barrel smokers in appearance, Memphis Wood Fire Grills have adopted the handsome sleek lines and bold bravado of premium gas grills. Constructed of double walled 304 stainless steel with seamless welds, the unit does a magnificent job of maintaining preset temperatures, even in inclement weather. (The company—based in Bloomington, Minnesota—knows a thing or two about the winter and the challenges it throws up to diehard barbecuers.) A substantial oven-grade gasket around the periphery of the lid creates a tight seal for superior temperature control and minimum pellet use.

But this grill—Steven uses the Memphis Elite model on the show, at Barbecue University, and at home—has beauty and brains, the latter exemplified by a number of features. But first, a little background on wood pellets as cooking fuel.

Pellet grills/smokers were spawned by the oil crisis of the 1970s. The quest for affordable heat sources renewed interest in wood stoves. Of course, they are not particularly convenient to use. An Oregon-based heating company, Traeger, pioneered a method for converting hardwood sawdust into small pellets and developed a furnace that used them efficiently. By the late 1980s, Traeger had patented and begun production of the first pellet grill.

Pellet grills are one of the fastest-growing segments of the grill industry. Though they currently represent just 3 percent of all grill and barbecue sales in the U.S., they are becoming increasingly popular with competition-level pit masters and home cooks according to the Hearth and Patio Barbecue Association (HPBA).

Among the many benefits Memphis Wood Fire Grills give barbecuers and grillers is the opportunity to cook over real wood, the most flavorful cooking fuel on the planet. The company’s one-touch Intelligent Temperature Control (ITC) makes it super-easy to maintain consistent temperatures that can be so challenging to hold in traditional charcoal- and wood-fired grills and smokers, especially for long cooks. You simply set your desired temperature on the digital controller; the range is 180 to 700 degrees. A special app (included with the grill) links with your smartphone. Memphis was the first pellet grill to offer a Wi-Fi enabled controller, a real plus on days when “set it and forget it” is your goal.

Smoking, indirect grilling, smoke-roasting, and even convection-type baking are functions most pellet grills offer. But some models of the Memphis Wood Fire Grill go one better: You can actually do a high-temperature sear—desirable when grilling steaks or chops, for example: The heat diffuser plate can be replaced with a perforated “over flame” plate (optional) that sits directly over the burn chamber for steakhouse-quality searing.

According to the company, Memphis Wood Fire Grills cost about the same to operate as a propane grill. The Elite model holds 16 pounds of pellets and uses approximately 1.5 pounds of pellets per hour.

On the Elite, a trio of temperature probes monitors the internal temperature of up to three meats. Using the aforementioned app, you can set up separate alerts on your smartphone to keep tabs on everything. The grill is very roomy, too, with 1274 square inches of cooking space.

Memphis Wood Fire Grills currently offers four cart models, which range in price from $2599 to $4999. Three built-in units for outdoor kitchens range in price from $3599 to $9698 (the latter includes a premium Elite model grill). See the options at www.memphisgrills.com.

NOW THROUGH MAY 31ST, ENTER FOR A CHANCE TO WIN THE PROJECT FIRE SWEEPSTAKES, INCLUDING A MEMPHIS GRILL! ENTER HERE.

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It’s tough to miss the news reports, with media like ABC News and the New York Times examining some of the potential injuries and threats from ingesting wire grill bristles.

Well, don’t let the news reports get you down. There are alternatives to the risk of stray wire bristles when cleaning your grill. Here are three cleaning devices that will help you grill cleanly—and safely:

Best of Barbecue Ultimate Grill Brush
In conventional grill brushes, the bristles are squeezed upright into holes drilled in the wooden or plastic block that serves as the brush head. Normally, these bristles can withstand up to 5 pounds of pressure before pulling out. But over time the brush head can become waterlogged or warped, causing the metal bristles to loosen or fall out. To prevent this, we’ve twisted the metal bristles between two strands of stiff steel wire. The result: it would now take 25 pounds of pressure to pull the wire bristles loose. We previously covered the details behind the new grill brush—you can read more here. And the extra long handle keeps your arm away from the fire.

GrillStone® Cleaning Block
Safe for all grills, including porcelain enamel, cast iron, stainless steel and steel, the GrillStone® Cleaning Block is a chemical-free option that completely eliminates the need for bristles. This ingenious block conforms to shape of the surface to clean between the bars of the grate. Best of all, it is made from recycled materials, which would otherwise wind up in landfills.

Charboss Wooden Grill Scraper
The Charboss scraper—made from hardwood—is entirely bristle-free. The more you use it to scrape clean your grill grate, then more the blade conforms to the shape of your grates. The embedded bottle opener is a nice bonus for easy bottle opening during your BBQ!

Do YOU have a strategy for cleaning your grill grate without the risk of stray bristles? Details and photos, please! Post them on the Barbecue Board or my Facebook page. Grill on!

The post How to Clean Your Grill Efficiently and Safely appeared first on Barbecuebible.com.

Annual maintenance needn’t be a chore if you have the right equipment, not to mention some tunes and an adult beverage. And for motivation, host an epic barbecue once the work is done.

(Note: The following advice applies to smokers. Also see our spring cleaning tips for gas grills and charcoal grills.)

What you’ll need:

• Inexpensive plastic tarp for protecting work area

• Grilling gloves as well as heavy-duty rubber gloves

• Large plastic utility tub

• A good cleaner/degreaser, preferably organic, such as Simple Green or SAFECID; special cleaners may be required for smokers constructed of stainless steel

• Small wet/dry vacuum

• Water hose with a high pressure sprayer nozzle

• Heavy-duty scrubbing sponges and scouring pads

• Long-handled wooden spoon or paint stirring stick

• Plastic putty knife, paint scraper, or scraper with plastic blades

• Grill brush

Before proceeding, consult the owner’s manual that came with your smoker for specific instructions. Not sure where the paperwork is? Most large manufacturers publish the manuals online.

OFFSET BARREL SMOKERS

Note: The following instructions are for smokers without any electrical or digital components.

Unless you want to power wash your deck or patio after you’ve cleaned your cooker, put on rubber gloves and lay a large tarp down where you plan to work and move the smoker onto the tarp. (Remove any unspent fuel from the cook chamber first.) Recruit help if you need it—some smokers are heavy. Fill a plastic tub with hot water and dish soap or your cleaner of choice and set aside.

Brush the grates with a grill brush. (Use a brush with brass bristles if the grates are porcelain-coated so you don’t nick them.) Place in the tub to soak. Scrape and brush the heat diffuser plate, if your smoker has one. Unscrew the dome from the chimney and add the dome and the diffuser plate to the tub.

Using a paint stirring stick or long-handled wooden spoon or stiff brush, clean the inside of the chimney.

Scrape the inside lid of the firebox and cook chamber with a putty knife or paint scraper. Loosen any pools of grease and/or carbonized food in the bottom and wipe up with paper towels. Scrape the bottom half of the cook chamber, making sure to get into the corners. Clean the grease gutter with the paint stirring stick. Vacuum the loose ash and debris with a wet/dry vac.

Remove the grease catcher and clean out any drippings. Add the grease catcher to the tub. Using hot water, hose out the firebox, cook chamber, and the outside surfaces of the smoker. A pressure washer works even better. Remove any stubborn debris using a scrubby and degreaser. Wipe off the gasket.

Towel out any excess water with rags or paper towels. With the lids up and the vents open, let the smoker air dry. If the smoker shows signs of rust, remove it with sandpaper or steel wool, prime, and spray with a good-quality high-temperature paint.

In the meantime, scrub the smoker parts you’ve soaked in the soapy water, replacing the water as needed. Allow to air dry. Reassemble the smoker. Oil it inside and out with vegetable oil. Lubricate the vents if they’re sticky. (Tip: For easy clean-up, line the grease bucket with heavy-duty aluminum foil. Replace after each use.)

Maintain your grill by doing the following after each smoke:

• Immediately after smoking, brush the rack clean with a grill brush.

• When the smoker is barely warm to the touch, scrape out any grease that’s accumulated in the bottom of the smoke chamber. Empty the drip pan or grease bucket. Wipe off the gasket that surrounds the lid with a damp rag.

• When the grill is completely cold, clean out the spent ash, preferably into a metal ash can.

• Periodically scrape off any scale that’s developed on the inside of the lid so it doesn’t end up on your food.

• To prevent rust, occasionally re-oil the smoker.

PELLET SMOKERS

Note: It is very important to keep the inside of your pellet smoker dry. Not only are the electronics sensitive to moisture, but the pellets will disintegrate if they get wet, potentially turning to wood “cement” in the augur, jamming it.

Make sure the cooker is completely cold, preferably unused for 24 hours. Fill a large plastic tub with hot water and dish soap or your cleaner of choice and set aside. Place the grill rack in the water along with the chimney dome. Remove any foil from the drip pan and flame deflector and scrape and/or brush off any debris. Add to the tub only if they’re especially dirty. Discard any solids in the grease bucket and add to the tub. Scrub all the parts as needed and air-dry thoroughly.

Using a paint stirring stick or long-handled wooden spoon or stiff brush, clean out the grease shoot. Scrape the inside of the chimney. (You’ll be surprised how much gunk accumulates here.) Secure a damp scrubby to the end of the spoon or brush with rubber bands and wipe out the inside of the chimney. Scrape the inside of the lid to dislodge any flakes of smoke or soot.

Using a shop-type vac, vacuum out the interior of the smoker, including the firepot. Make sure the holes in the side of the firepot are clear. Wipe the interior of the smoker with a barely damp scrubby or rag sprayed with a cleaner like Simple Green. Carefully wipe the temperature probe, usually located on the left hand side of the cook chamber.

Wipe down the outside of the smoker with a fresh damp scrubby. Clean any stainless steel parts with stainless steel polish. Finish any powder-coated parts with auto wax if desired.

Cover the drip pan with fresh heavy-duty aluminum foil. Reassemble the grill; don’t forget to hang the grease bucket from its hook. (You can line it with aluminum foil for easier clean-up.)

Maintain your pellet smoker by doing the following after each smoke:

• Let the smoker run on High for 10 minutes, then brush the grill grate with a brass-bristled brush. Cool down and turn off the smoker as per the manufacturer’s instructions. Remove the grease bucket from its hook and put it in a place where animals are unable to reach it (raccoons love grease buckets).

• With a damp rag, wipe any drips off the outside of the smoker.

• Once the grill has cooled completely, i.e., the next day, replace the foil on the drip pan, if needed, to avoid a grease fire. This is especially important after you’ve cooked fatty meats like bacon or pork shoulder.

• If you notice any peeling paint, treat it immediately to prevent the unit from rusting.

ELECTRIC CABINET SMOKERS

Note: As with pellet smokers, it is important to keep the electronics that govern electric smokers dry. Again, please consult the owner’s manual for your unit before cleaning the smoker.

Let the smoker cool completely before cleaning.

After each use, the racks, drip pan, and water bowl can be cleaned in hot soapy water or even in the dishwasher, according to some manufacturers. Dry completely. Empty the smoker box and wipe clean with a damp cloth. (Do not immerse in water.)

Periodically, use a soft bristle brush (like a whisk brush) to brush any loose bits of food, ash, or debris to the floor of the smoker. Sweep out. Wipe down the metal walls—not including the glass front, if it has one—of the interior with a damp sponge. (Do not expect to recapture the interior’s shiny surface; it will discolor with use.)

Carefully wipe down the temperature probe and the button-shaped interior thermometer as well as the gasket on the inside of the door.

If the smoker has a glass front, clean it with a damp sponge. Cleaners formulated specifically for ceramic cook tops are approved by some manufacturers.

Clean the outside similarly—with a damp sponge.

Several experienced electric smoker owners recommend running the smoker with a mixture of vinegar or lemon juice and water in the water pan until the interior steams up—about an hour. Let the smoker sit until it cools, then wipe down the interior surfaces (including the glass window) to remove any smoky residue. Let dry completely with the door propped open. Reassemble the smoker when the interior is thoroughly dry.

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• Spring cleaning: Evict any spiders or other nesting critters and clear out the cobwebs or other debris from the manifolds, burner valves, connectors, etc. Compressed air (available canned if you don’t own an air compressor) is an efficient way to do this. Empty and clean the grease trap or drip pan; replace any disposables, such as foil pans, if needed.
• More spring cleaning: Use a commercial grill cleaner such as the ones made by Green Earth Technologies and Citrusafe or a product like Simple Green to clean the interior and any internal parts, such as baffles, flavorizer bars, etc. If your grill is polished stainless steel, use a commercial stainless steel cleaner on the exterior, or wipe it down with a soft cloth using a mixture of water, mild dish soap, and white vinegar. Replace ceramic briquettes as needed.
• Leak patrol: For safety’s sake, ensure there are no leaks in your fuel delivery system. Inspect the hoses: They should not be crimped or brittle. The propane tank should not be bulging, rusted, or compromised in any way. (If it is, exchange it.) If you disconnected the tank for the winter, reconnect it. Make a leak detection solution by combining 2 tablespoons of liquid dish soap with 2 tablespoons of water. Leaving the burners in the “off” position, open the valve to the propane tank. If you smell gas, brush the leak detection solution on the hoses and couplings and look for bubbling. Replace any failed parts and repeat the test before lighting your grill. Note: This is rare, but it does happen.
• Igniters on: Press the igniter button. If you do not hear a clicking noise or see a spark, change the battery by unscrewing the lock nut at the base of the button or behind the control panel. Most take an AA battery. I replace mine every season.
• Clear the burner tubes: Remove the grill grate and baffles or flavorizer bars. Light your grill (be sure to raise the lid first), then observe the burners. If any holes seem plugged, clear them using a bent paper clip, pin, or thin piece of wire. Severely clogged burners may need to be replaced.
• Fuel up: Don’t let a near-empty tank of propane ruin your first barbecue of the season. If you don’t have a gas level indicator, pour a cup of boiling water over the outside of the tank: The water will condense at the gas level. Or, remove the tank and weigh it: A full tank weighs about 38 pounds. There are now several apps for iPhones and Androids that gauge the amount of propane you have on hand by analyzing the sound the tank makes when you tap it. An example is the TankMeter. In any case, always have a spare tank on hand.

Try these grill cleaning tools:
Grill Scraping Tool
Grill Daddy Steam-Operated Grill-Cleaning Tool
Dual Handle Grill Brush
Ultimate Grill Brush

Suggested recipes for spring:
Lamb Burgers
Grilled Artichokes with Piment d’Espelette Aioli
Lemon-Sesame Asparagus Rafts

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If nothing else, this winter added new words to the nation’s weather vocabulary as it spread inconvenience and misery from Bozeman to Boston, from International Falls to Atlanta.

But spring officially arrived Thursday, March 20—not a moment too soon. Many of you shoveled the path to your grill and kept smoking and grilling this winter. We salute you. And if you’re just now waking your charcoal grill or smoker out of its winter hibernation, here’s what you need to do to get it ready for action now. (We’ll cover gas grills next week.)

• Spring cleaning: Thoroughly clean the inside and outside of the grill. If you cleaned it last fall and benched it for the winter, a quick rinse with a hose will do the trick. If you’ve been using it (or stored it without cleaning it—you wouldn’t do that), start by emptying the ash catcher. Remove the grates. Using a garden trowel or putty knife, tackle any solidified piles of ash or drippings in the bottom of the firebox. Spray stubborn crud with a commercial grill cleaner like he one made by Green Earth Technologies or soak it with Simple Green. Rinse, preferably with a power washer. That’s what we do at Barbecue University.
  
  If you own a kamado-style cooker, like a Big Green Egg, check the tightness of the bands, then adjust with an Allen wrench. Replace any gaskets as needed. Clean out ash from the bottom. If the interior has developed mildew (common for unglazed ceramic in humid environments), build a fire in your grill and preheat to 600 degrees. Let it burn for 20 minutes. Close the vents and allow the grill to cool completely, then brush the grill grate and interior with a stiff-bristled brush. Wash the exterior with soapy water and a soft cloth. For more cleaning tips specific to kamado cookers, check the manufacturer’s manual or website.
• Rust patrol: Inspect the body of your grill for rust. Sand minor dings and rust spots, then touch up with a high-quality heatproof paint. (The rims of kettle grills are especially prone to dings, which then allow rust to get a toehold.) If your grill is powder-coated, look for heat-flaked paint. Oftentimes, the manufacturer stocks paint that will match your grill. Discard grills that have rusted through. (I know, it’s hard.)
• Lube job: Loosen any sticky vents, wheels, or ash catchers by applying a lubricant or a silicone spray such as WD-40.
• Get grates camera ready: Build a hot fire in your grill with the grill grates in position. Let it burn for 20 minutes. Fill a spray bottle with water, then spray the hot grates. Brush the grates with a high-quality grill brush or pumice brick. (Use softer brass bristles for porcelain-coated grill grates to avoid scratching them.) Finish by oiling the bars with a grill oiler or a tightly folded paper towel dipped in vegetable oil. Repeat as needed. If your grill grates are warped or in especially rough shape, buy replacements.
• Inventory fuel and equipment: Do you need fresh charcoal, wood chips or chunks, fatwood, or paraffin fire starters? Maybe a new chimney starter or grill gloves? As you upgrade your current inventory, remember: investing in good tools now will save you replacement costs in the future. Tip: To keep charcoal dry throughout the season, store in a lidded galvanized metal container.

Once the work is done, reward yourself by grilling a meal to celebrate the arrival of spring.

Here are two seasonal recipes to inspire you:

Israeli Spring Game Hens
Asparagus Rafts

Don’t forget to sign up for our newsletter before Monday, so you can can get a FREE copy of my Miami Spice e-book.

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TUNING UP YOUR CHARCOAL GRILL

1. Spring cleaning: Clean your grill thoroughly. (Of course, you did that the last time you used your grill, but just double check.) Scrape out any congealed ash at the bottom of the firebox or kettle bowl with a garden trowel. Empty the ash catcher (if you haven’t already done so.)
2. Lube the vents: Squirt any sticky vents with a silicone spray like WD-40.
3. Rust patrol: Treat minor rust or dings with a high-quality heatproof paint. If rust is beginning to eat through the grill walls, it’s time to say goodbye, no matter how many good times you’ve shared.
4. Scrub the grate: Even if you brushed and oiled your grate after the last time you used it, you’ll need to do so again before your first grill session. Build a raging fire in the grill. Preheat the grate, then brush it with a stiff wire brush and oil it with a grill oiler or tightly folded paper towel dipped in oil and drawn across the bars of the grate. (This oils the grate and removes any loose brush bristles and debris.) Repeat as needed. Note: this usually suffices to remove light rust, too. If not, do as my assistant, Nancy, does—she buys a new grate for her kettle grill each year for about $15.00. Remember, the more you use the grill, the more the grate will resist rust and sticking.
5. Check your charcoal: If your charcoal sat in the garage or an outdoor shed all winter, it may have absorbed moisture and will not light or burn properly. Buy a fresh bag. Buy a couple so you don’t run out during a grill session. Note: If you own a charcoal grill with a propane igniter, like the Weber Performer, check the igniter battery as described below and replace the small LP canister as needed.

TUNING UP YOUR GAS GRILL

1. Spring cleaning: Clear out all spiders, cobwebs, and other debris from inside the manifolds, burner valves connectors, etc. Empty and clean the grease trap, lining it with a fresh foil pan or aluminum foil as required. Once grill is lit, preheat it screaming hot and brush and oil the grill grate. Note: It’s easy to clean a hot grate; almost impossible when it’s cold.
2. Leak patrol: Check the hoses: if brittle or crimped, replace. Turn on the propane valve (with burner knobs shut). If you smell gas, make a leak detection solution by mixing equal parts liquid dish soap and water. Brush this on the hoses and couplings: if you see bubbles, you have a leak. Replace any leaking parts.
3. Clear the burner tubes: Remove the grill grate and metal baffles or flavorizer bars and make sure flames emerge from all the holes in the burner tubes. If any look blocked, open them with a bent paperclip, straight pin, or other thin wire.
4. Igniters on: Press the igniter button. If you fail to hear a click or see a spark, check the battery. Unscrew the lock nut at the base of the button or behind the control panel. Most igniters take a size AA battery. I replace mine every season.
5. Fuel up: You’ll want to start the grill season with a full tank of propane. If you don’t have a gas level indicator on your grill, weigh the tank—a full one weighs about 38 pounds. Another way to test is to pour a cup of boiling water over the side of the tank: the hot water will condense at and below the level where you have propane. Tip: Invest in an extra full propane tank. Sooner or later, you’ll run out of gas during grilling.

Final advice: Always raise the lid! When lighting a gas grill always have the lid open. Failure to do so may result in a propane build-up and potentially fatal explosion. I have seen this happen—don’t take chances.

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